The Hunt for Your Perfect Watch Of Navigating the UK’s Watch Market

I first came across Lloyd Cole, the marketing and social media manager for The Swiss Link (TSL), on Instagram. Known for his distinctive style, Lloyd’s feed showcases a dreamy mix of rural scenes and atmospheric cottages, attracting a million followers. But his connection to TSL goes beyond his personal account. Since joining the pre-owned watch retailer part-time in spring, Lloyd has become the company’s public face, helping elevate its brand presence amid the crowded secondary watch market in the UK.

Lloyd’s collaboration with founder Dan Scarpitta has yielded impressive results. Scarpitta, a man of few words and distinct aesthetic – his navy T-shirt and black loafers contrasting Lloyd’s more eccentric look – founded TSL to cater to a niche market, one outside the luxury replica watch epicenters of Switzerland and London. TSL’s aim is to make fine watches more accessible, offering an alternative to high-street giants. In just six months, the company’s Instagram following has soared, and while the feedback is varied, one thing is clear: engagement is growing.

It’s a sunny Tuesday in September when I visit TSL’s headquarters – an industrial site repurposed into office space in Huddersfield. I’m here to explore what might be called the “quiet majority” of the UK watch market – dealers, makers, and brokers outside the London spotlight. I’m curious how watches are bought and sold in the real world, far from the glossy Bond Street façades and the allure of doormen in top hats.

Scarpitta explains the company’s discerning approach to watch procurement. “We’re very particular about what we buy,” he says, his tone measured yet firm. While Lloyd Cole’s Instagram antics have drawn attention, Scarpitta’s philosophy remains rooted in patience and integrity. “Building a business takes time,” he adds.

TSL entered the booming pre-owned market just as demand soared. For a while, the market was a seller’s paradise, especially for high-demand models like Rolex. “I could have bought a chocolate Yachtmaster for a certain price, and three weeks later it would be worth £500 more,” recalls Lloyd. But by the spring of 2022, the market cooled, and prices began to drop. “It’s a buyer’s market now,” says Scarpitta. “The prices have leveled off, and there’s more confidence.”

In this new environment, speed and margin matter. Scarpitta highlights a rhodium-dial Datejust, currently priced £900 less than its competitors. “I know it’s the best deal out there,” he adds. He bought the watch for £8,000 as part of a trade-in and plans to sell it for £9,000. “We’re not greedy,” he reassures. “The customer gets a top-tier watch for less than anyone else.”

However, TSL’s biggest hurdle is establishing trust in a marketplace rife with skepticism. Despite the company’s efforts, including a satellite showroom in London’s expensive Oxford Street, gaining traction was difficult. The high rent alone made the venture unsustainable. But Lloyd Cole’s personable presence on social media has given TSL a human face, and word of mouth is gradually building momentum. Soon, TSL will offer a new authentication service, powered by an ex-Rolex watchmaker, providing customers with certificates for each watch’s inspection.

Around 225 miles away, Mappin & Webb’s Bluewater showroom offers a different watch-buying experience. On a Friday afternoon, I’m struck by the sheer variety of watch retailers at this Kent shopping center. With names like Goldsmiths, Omega, and Breitling boutiques, and even a Watchfinder & Co location, Bluewater stands as a beacon for luxury watches.

Mappin & Webb, which has been in business for nearly 250 years, represents the epitome of traditional British watch retail. The brand has held royal warrants for decades, and its reputation for quality craftsmanship is unquestionable. Jason Fitzgerald, the retail director, explains that Mappin & Webb is not just about the watches, but the experience – an experience that brings London-style luxury to the second-tier cities of the UK. “Many clients appreciate not having to trek to Bond Street for this level of service,” he says.

While Rolex dominates the store’s sales, Mappin & Webb also boasts a strong selection of Cartier, Girard-Perregaux, IWC, and Panerai. The store’s contemporary design and plush private lounges cater to a younger, more brand-conscious clientele, and Fitzgerald notes that brands like IWC and Hublot are getting increased attention. “A watch like the Classic Fusion is the perfect gateway piece for first-time collectors,” he adds, showing me an exclusive £10,300 edition made for Watches of Switzerland. The store only has one, and it’s expected to sell quickly.

At TSL, the focus is on value, but Mappin & Webb offers a different type of appeal: exceptional service. Richard Bromley, the deputy showroom manager, recounts a recent interaction where a client entrusted him with the task of selecting a farewell gift for a retiring employee. After some back-and-forth via WhatsApp, they settled on a pre-owned replica Rolex, and the client was so pleased that they shared an emotional moment when the surprise was revealed. “These things happen all the time here,” says Fitzgerald, emphasizing the importance of cultivating long-term relationships.

In contrast, Fears Watch Company, located in the Victorian Clifton Arcade in Bristol, represents a more niche approach to luxury watches. Fears, a British brand with roots dating back to 1846, was reborn in 2016 under the leadership of Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, a direct descendant of the original founder. Fears is aiming to challenge the dominance of Swiss watchmakers, offering a more attainable alternative with watches starting at around £3,000. The brand’s focus is on timeless design and British craftsmanship, with each watch assembled in-house in Bristol.

Despite being a small operation, Fears has found success by balancing heritage with innovation. Bowman-Scargill, impeccably dressed and every bit the modern entrepreneur, is focused on ensuring that Fears represents something unique in the watch industry. “We’re not alternative; we are an alternative,” he states, positioning Fears as a true competitor to the Swiss giants. The company’s boutique, which opened in April, serves both as a showroom and a base for retail and events.

Fears’ business model reflects a keen understanding of its audience. “Most customers are not collectors,” Bowman-Scargill explains. “They’re buying watches for special occasions, like weddings or milestone birthdays.” This approach allows Fears to thrive in a market dominated by enthusiasts, appealing to those who might not follow horology blogs but still value a well-made watch.

For Fears, the future looks bright. Bowman-Scargill has plans to expand, aiming to produce 10,000 watches annually by 2035. The brand’s emphasis on quality over quantity is evident, and while there are no guarantees in the luxury watch world, Bowman-Scargill’s confidence is palpable. “The only brand that will never change is clone Rolex. Everything else is up for grabs,” he asserts.

The watch industry, though deeply rooted in heritage, continues to evolve. Whether it’s TSL’s approach to affordability and quick turnover, Mappin & Webb’s luxury experience, or Fears’ push for a British revival, each brand navigates the market with a unique strategy. But one thing remains constant: the watch is much more than a timekeeping device. It’s a statement of status, a work of art, and in many cases, an heirloom. The perfect watch, in fact, can serve all of these purposes simultaneously.